Active ingredients:
Diacetyl Boldin: Stabilizes the tyrosinase in its inactive form via an antagonistic receptor plus calcium flow regulation - thus inhibits the activity of tyrosinase - an enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis.
Rumex Occidentalis Extract & Ascorbic Acid: Inhibits the effect of tyrosinase by competing with the enzyme in three places along with the melanin synthesis chain of production.
Resorcinol Derivates: Resorcinol is a molecule very similar to Hydroquinone (HQ) (while Hydroquinone is 4 – Hydroxy phenol, resorcinol is 3 hydroxyphenyl).
This similarity also exists in their mode of action. Since HQ a very well-known skin lightener, Resorcinol does the same and in very similar mechanism.
However – HQ, Resorcinol and Retinal are forbidden to be used in cosmetic skin care products in Europe.
In the last 10 years, three derivatives of Resorcinol were developed. All three are skin lighteners (but to a different extent).
Those molecules are:
Phenylethyl Resorcinol.
4 Hexyl Resorcinol.
4 Butyl Resorcinol.
Poly-Resveratrol or Resveratrol of natural sources:
Resveratrol has a high importance in lightening creams because it has several parallel actions:
Inhibits melanin production by:
Halts alpha- MSH hormone.
Halts TRP-2 protein.
Halts melanosomes transfer to target cells.
Causes rapid lightening (as soon as 7-10 days) probably by dissolving existing melanin.
Octa decanoic Acid: Inhibits the transcription of the Gene (DNA) of tyrosinase to RNA (from which the protein is translated) – thus inhibits tyrosinase production in the nucleic Acid stage.
Oxthiazolidine Carboxylic Acid: This pro-cysteine molecule, prevents melanin synthesis through binding copper ions that are essential for tyrosinase activity (responsible for melanin production).
Tetrahydro diferuloylmethane: Extracted from curcumin, inhibits tyrosinase activity, slow down melanogenesis. Acts as a strong antioxidant. Activity similar but lower than Hexylresorcinol. Added to increase activity since all other resorcinol derivates were added at their maximum allowed concentration.
Nonapeptide-1: Biomimetic peptide which inhibits melanin synthesis induced by AlphaMSH (it is an antagonist to Alpha-MSH). It also reverses hyperpigmentation
